Reverse Osmosis System Installation in Buda, TX
Don’t worry about the Reverse Osmosis System Installation if you have decided to add a Reverse Osmosis water filter system in your home. We can imagine that you don’t want to be exposed to nasty water contaminants any longer. You found a great model online and purchased it a couple of days ago. This morning, the system arrived in a big, heavy box. You opened the package to take a first look. Wow, you didn’t expect the system to have that many different parts. If you have the skills to set everything up correctly, then relax. But considering you are not a trained plumber. Try not to do the installation yourself and call LONE STAR WATER SERVICE immediately.
Below are some steps which will explain Reverse Osmosis system installation to you correctly.
- Faucet Installation
We start by installing the reverse osmosis faucet that provides you with clean, great-tasting drinking water.
First of all, you need to decide where you want to place it then mark the spot with a center punch. We then carefully grind away enough surface material to safely accommodate the ¼” drill bit. Now a hole is drilled slowly when you are about to hit any metal (a drop of oil can work wonders). For a ⅜” or ½” hole, drill a ¼” pilot hole first.
After completion, any remaining metal chips that could damage the surface are cleaned up & the sharp edges are removed. Later we put the faucet stem through the hole. Then secure it from the bottom with washers and a hex nut.
- Installing the Drain Saddle
The next step is to install the drain saddle or Drain line adapter on the drain line.
The drain saddle and/or the drain adapter should be placed above and as far away as possible from the dishwasher discharge and garbage disposal to avoid clogging and to protect your RO system from potential contamination and fouling. What’s more, it should be at least 6″ above the p-trap.
We drill a ¼” hole in the top or the side of the drain line. Then the drain clamps are secured with bolts that align with the clamp hole in the pipe.
- Feed Valve Installation
While moving towards the third step, we are going to install the inlet feed valve, which connects your reverse osmosis system to the cold water line.
First, both the cold and hot water supply is turned off. If valves are inoperable, then you’ll be asked to shut off the entire water to your home. Then after that, the pressure in the water lines is released by opening respective outlets. Remove the tubing from the cold water valve. Now, the new feed valve will be installed and tightened with a wrench. Make sure to close the feed valve for the time being.
- Water Storage Tank Installation
You would want to place the water storage tank within 10 feet of the drinking water faucet to not lose significant pressure. Before putting it in position, wrap about six layers of Teflon tape around the threaded port at the top. Then screw on the tank connector or tank valve. They should thread on easily and only need to be hand-tight.
Although, with many systems, the storage tank can also be placed on its side without compromising filtration performance. This comes in handy if you don’t have much space in your kitchen cabinet.
- Filter + Membrane Installation
The various pre-filters & RO membrane are now inserted into their housings according to the instructions provided below-
- For the pre-filters, the filter housing is removed first. Then the filter is inserted and screwed and the housing back with all the O-rings in place. Then we carefully tighten the filter with the wrench afterward.
- For the RO membrane, we remove the housing cap and carefully push the cylinder into the socket until entirely in. Then we put the lid back on while making sure that any O-rings sit tight.
Some manufacturers recommend to flush a new system a couple of times before use. Once you’ve done that, the setup is complete and your water is ready for drinking.
Reverse Osmosis System Cost Factors in Buda, TX
4 Stage Reverse Osmosis System Installation Starting at only $499.00.
If you are looking for an under sink reverse osmosis systems and need help with replacement of filters or filter change, then we have highly trained and licensed plumbers to help. Even if you didn’t purchase your system through us, we still service it if it needs repairs or replacement parts.
For a small whole house or light commercial system, you have to invest at least $500. If you add an atmospheric tank + delivery pump or a bladder tank $1,500 is the minimum.
How much does a reverse osmosis system cost? To accurately answer this question, we need to take these factors into account:
- Size – RO systems differ in price depending on their size and complexity. For a few hundred dollars, you can get yourself an under sink or countertop unit that connects to a single faucet only (usually the kitchen tap). For up to several thousand dollars, you can buy a whole house system that filters all the water coming into your home.
- Filtration process – Some systems provide a sophisticated 5-step filtration process, even using UV light to kill waterborne pathogens. Others come with no more than three different filter stages. Your purification needs, therefore, also dictate how much you will have to pay.
- Brand – Some brands are more costly than others. This is pretty common.
- Additional features – Supplementary features include a pump to boost pressure, which increases water production capacity, efficiency, and flow rate while reducing the amount of wastewater that goes down the drain. Other popular add-ons are demineralization stages to balance water pH and increase alkalinity, and a modular design for convenient filter/membrane replacements. The latter also helps to prevent germs from accumulating inside the system.
|Basic labor||Mounting RO faucet (may require drilling hole in sink or countertop), drain saddle installation, mounting RO module, connecting system to existing water source, installing filters + reverse osmosis membrane, system startup, checking for smooth operation, cleanup|
|Connectors, adapters, fittings||Francisco Chang|
|Equipment||Drill bit, screwdriver, tubing cutter, utility knife, adjustable wrench|
|RO System Type||Cost Range|
|Standard under sink||$150 – $500 USD|
|Countertop||$60 – $450 USD|
Reverse Osmosis System Repair in Buda, TX
If your reverse osmosis system is not working correctly, there could be any number of things that are causing this.
To successfully repair your Reverse Osmosis System, the root of the problem should be identified first. The various parts of an RO system work together to provide you with extremely clean and pure drinking water. A problem could be caused when multiple RO components malfunction. So repairing your reverse osmosis system requires a systematic approach to eliminate possible issues. Call LONE STAR WATER SERVICE so that we can repair your RO system with ease, at your convenience of course.
RO Water Purifier Repair Service in Buda, TX
A Noise Drain
If you are facing a problem with your water purifier of a noise drain & low water production from your RO water purifier. Then you can immediately contact our professional plumbers who are available at your door step at your schedule time.
Slow Flow of Water
If you are facing a problem where water flow is too low from your water purifier. Then you can immediately contact us. Our professionals are always ready to help. Our expert technician will give you 100% satisfaction.
Most water filters need the water to move through it at a good clip for the filtration system to work correctly. It cannot deliver the water to the filter at a high enough pressure, so it may need to be replaced. Call us if it needs replacement.
If your purifier is not working and gives no response when you switch it ON or the water flow into the fresh water tank is very slow. Then, don’t wait to face a problem of your RO water purifier. We can assure you that we will provide you with high-quality services.
How do we repair Reverse Osmosis Systems in Buda, TX?
Have a look below to know about how our highly trained plumbers repair any issue that your Reverse Osmosis (RO) system might be facing.
No, slow, or very little water
- Permeate flow rate: We close the tank valve, and then open the faucet handle. After the water starts dripping steadily, we measure the output for 60 seconds.
- Drain flow rate: We disconnect the tubing connection where the 3/8 tube hooks to the drain line. Then, we allow the water to run into a large measuring cup for 30 seconds.
- Feed pressure: At this point, recording what the feed pressure is in your system would help, but that may not be possible. If you’re installing your system for the first time, there’s no set pressure reading to go on, but this could be part of the issue.
- Tank pressure: A simple tire gauge applied to the air valve under a blue cap on the side of the tank will give a close reading. It should be 5-7 psi.
The RO storage tank
We check the tank to see if it’s full of water or not. If it’s complete, then we open the faucet and check the flow rate. If nothing is flowing, we check to make sure the valve is in the open position (handle in line with the tubing). If everything looks right, then we check to see if any pressure is in the tank with a tire pressure gauge. If not, then pressure is added with a bicycle pump with the faucet open until the tank empties. Once the tank is emptied, regulate the pressure to 5-7 psi. If water spurts out when checking for pressure, then the tank’s diaphragm has lost integrity, and the tank should be replaced.
Constant run to the drain
The Reverse Osmosis or RO system shuts down when tank pressure reaches 2/3 of supply line pressure, and the ASO valve closes. Regular water running to the pipe means that the ASO is not shutting off. The ASO operates fine if the membrane, flow restrictor, tank, and check valve are all performing properly. We test this quickly by turning the tank valve off to see if the ASO stops water flow to the drain. This may tank a few minutes depending on membrane output.
- Flow restrictor is missing or failed. Flow rate test should identify if large amount of water is running towards the drain accompanied by much noise.
- Tank is not filling enough to build the pressure which is needed. A flow rate test should identify if there’s a membrane production issue or not.
ASO valve gets stuck in a closed position. This problem can be easily solved by completely disconnecting the valve and making sure all pressure is off the assembly.
- Check valve is exerting pressure, preventing the system from reaching shut off pressure. Test this with a full tank of water while the tank valve is open. Turn the water supply off. If the water still flows towards the drain, then the check valve is bleeding pressure. This type of failure is unusual, but essential to look for.
The RO storage tank
Loud, noisy water running to the drain is typically the result of too much water to the drain. The drain flow rate test should be done to identify this particular problem. The location of the drain saddle could be another contributor.
Locating the saddle on the crossover is best for noise reduction because a pipe placed directly under the sink may produce amplified sound. However, a Reverse Osmosis or RO system will always make some noise when it runs over.
Taste and Odor
Taste and odor are two things which are often associated with filters that need changing, a complete tank and system sanitation need, or a membrane failure (from high TDS breakthrough).
A well water application that may contain dissolved gas, like hydrogen sulfide or methane, will concentrate and enhance the odor. It’s possible that you may not know you have a hydrogen sulfide issue until it focuses on the membrane. The On-board carbon filtration won’t hold gases for long. So, you may not detect an odor in your new system for several days. Though, these issues must be corrected before installing a new reverse osmosis system. We can easily do this for you.
Leaks from a faucet air gap
These types of leaks are common in freshly installed RO systems. The air gap directs water from the RO system through an air gap or backflow preventer on the way to the drain. Water flows from the air gap to the drain by the grace of gravity. Leaving tubing on this connection is the most common installation error. If the tubing is not as straightforward as possible to the drain saddle connection, water will come out of the air gap hole in the base of the faucet, especially with declined and inclined connections.
Permeate flow rate
Testing the permeate flow rate is the best way to establish membrane function. With a few exceptions, the membrane of most RO systems running directly to the tank produces the product water. By shutting off the tank valve and opening the faucet, the membrane production will flow directly to the faucet. Once the “fast drip” becomes consistent, collect it in a measuring cup for 60 seconds.
Drain flow rate
To figure out whether you have the right amount of flow restriction to provide the driving force pressure, we disconnect the drain line where it connects to the drain saddle. Then, we point the open tube into a bucket and measure the water capacity with a large measuring cup for 30 seconds. Lastly, the results are multiplied by two and then compared with the drain flow rate numbers.
Fitting or housing leaks
Housing leaks are almost always O-ring related. Either the O-ring is not where it is supposed to be, or it has been compromised. Reused O-rings may stretch when they’ll be removed the housing to change the filters. It’s always a good idea to have an extra set of O-rings and some silicon O-ring lubricant on hand.